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CRUISING TO ENGLAND:
APSLEY HOUSE by Richard H. Wagner |
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The Duke of Wellington was one of the most prominent figures in an era dominated by famous people. Already a world famous military commander, he led the Allied forces in the final defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815. From there, he went on to play a leading diplomatic role in the peace conferences and subsequently became Prime Minister.
Apsley House is the Duke of Wellington's London home. It is known as “Number One London” both because of its location in the heart of London's most fashionable area and because of the prominence of its illustrious owner. Given to the nation in 1947 by the Duke's descendants, much of the house has been restored to the way it was when the Duke lived there. The house, however, is worth visiting not just because it is where a famous person once lived. Architecturally, it is of interest because the original house was designed by the the great neo-classical architect Robert Adam. Although altered over the years, much of his concept can still be seen. In addition, the house is full of what can only be described as artistic treasures given to Wellington by grateful admirers or collected by the Duke himself. The DukeArthur Wellesley, the future 1st Duke of Wellington. was born to an aristocratic family. However, as the fourth son of a lord, he had to earn his living. Growing up, his ambition was to be a musician. However, his mother thought her “ugly son Arthur” was only “fit food for powder” and had him trained for the military. Dutifully, Arthur burnt his violin and dedicated himself to the study of the profession that had been selected for him.
After serving as a junior officer in some of the campaigns against Revolutionary France, Arthur went to India where his elder brother was Governor-General. It was there, that Arthur displayed a flair for command and achieved a reputation winning battles against independent sultans, warlords and invaders. He also held various government posts, giving him a foundation for his later role as a statesman. While recognized as a brilliant military leader because of his campaigns in India, Arthur's reputation grew exponentially during the Peninsular War. In 1807, Napoleonic France and its Spanish allies invaded Portugal. Arthur was given command of a force of 9,000 men that was sent to help defend Britain's ally Portugal. Over the next eight years, Arthur won a series of battles successfully defending Portugal and subsequently liberating Spain from French occupation. With each success, honors, riches and titles were heaped upon Arthur. Very few commanders had had any success against Napoleonic France. Although Arthur never faced an army commanded by Napoleon himself during this period, he was very successful against Napoleon's key generals. Consequently, Arthur was an internationally acclaimed hero and went from being Sir Arthur Wellesley to being the Duke of Wellington. (A duke is the highest title in the peerage). Napoleon's luck turned against him when he invaded Russia and in 1813, France was invaded by Austria, Russia and Prussia from the east. Wellington led his army into southern France, fighting another series of battles against Napoleon's generals. Pressed from all sides, Napoleon abdicated in April 1814. The victors held a conference in Vienna to decide how Europe would be governed going forward. In February 1815, Wellington was selected to take the place of Britain's Foreign Secretary Lord Castlereagh at the Congress of Vienna. Meanwhile, Napoleon, who had been exiled to the island of Elba, was planning a return to power and on March 1 he landed in southern France with a small group of followers. The new French government sent an army to capture him but in a brilliant display of persuasion and bravado, Napoleon won the support of the army and the French people. Within a few weeks, he was once again on his throne in Paris. Napoleon had conquered or dominated all of continental Europe for more than a decade. Fearing another such period, the Allied powers rejected Napoleon's peace overtures. Instead, they declared war, not on France but on Napoleon personally. Of the major powers, only Britain and Prussia were able to put armies in the field quickly. Wellington was given command of the British army which was sent to Belgium where it joined with the forces of some smaller powers. The Prussians also sent their army to Belgium. Napoleon wanted to defeat there two armies before they could join forces and quickly attacked. On 16 June, he defeated the Prussians at Ligny. However, on the same day, the French under Marshall Ney were unable to defeat Wellington at Quatre Bras. Sending part of his army to chase the Prussians, Napoleon joined with Ney to attack Wellington. On 18 June, the two armies met at Waterloo. This was the first time Wellington had faced Napoleon. It was a close run battle. However, by nightfall, with the arrival of reinforcements from the Prussians, Napoleon's army was destroyed. As a result of this victory, Wellington became the most prominent figure in Europe. Even more praise, titles and riches were bestowed upon him by Napoleon's enemies. Indeed, when he went to France as the head of the army of occupation, he found himself feted and praised by Napoleon's former followers including some of his mistresses. Waterloo overshadowed the rest of Wellington's life. However, he did not simply sit back and rest on his laurels. He held a number of diplomatic and cabinet-level government positions. In 1828, Wellington became Prime Minister and succeeded in passing the Catholic Emancipation Bill. His opposition to reforming Parliament, however, was very unpopular and led a mob to stone Apsley House. By the time of his death in 1852, Wellington's popularity had recovered. In what was one of the largest funerals ever held in London, a million and a half people viewed the funeral procession to St. Paul's Cathedral. |
Visiting Apsley
Apsley House was built between 1771 and 1778 for the 1st Baron Apsley. It was purchased in 1808 by Marquess Wellesley, the elder brother of the Duke of Wellington. The Marquess sold the house to his brother in 1817.
The original house was designed by Robert Adam. However, various alterations were made by the Marquess who employed the fashionable architect James Wyatt. Wyatt's son, Benjamin Dean Wyatt, advised the Duke to purchase the house and made some additional repairs and alterations. Today, Apsley House sits by itself on an island surrounded by roads. However, this was not always so. Until a road was built to the east of the house in the 1960s, Apsley was part of the row of buildings that extends up Piccadilly. A new east facade of Bath stone was created at that point and the forecourt of the house changed. Inside, Apsley is a treasure house. On the ground floor is a room containing china services, plate, and other objects that were given to the Duke in gratitude for the victory at Waterloo. This is a theme running through Aplsey House - - priceless objects given in appreciation. Of these items, the two most memorable are the Sevres porcelain service, which Napoleon ordered for the Empress Josephine and the giant golden Wellington Shield with its scenes from the Duke's career. At the base of the stairs leading to the next floor is a giant statue of Napoleon. Sculpted by Antonio Canova, it shows Napoleon nude with the body of a tall, athletic Greek god. The short, somewhat pudgy Emperor was embarrassed by this portrayal and consigned it to the basement of the Louvre. After the fall of Napoleon, it was purchased by the British government and presented by the Prince Regent to Wellington. As a royal present, the Duke would have had to give the statue a prominent place in his house. However, the Duke seems to have had a fascination with his great opponent. There are several portraits of Napoleon and his family in the house including some that were purchased by the Duke. (The two men never actually met). Upstairs, the rooms are presented much the way they would have looked when the Duke lived here. There are few museum display cases, rather there is a mix of furniture and paintings arranged in a late 18th century, early 19th century style. These include rooms that were designed by Adam. The Duke had a strong interest in art. As a result, the collection includes works purchased by the Duke. These include landscapes and pictures with biblical subjects. However, there is also a Waterloo theme. The Duke commissioned Sir David Wilkie's “Pensioners reading the Waterloo Dispatch” and reportedly spoke with the artist while it was being created. There are also numerous portraits of contemporary leaders and of his military comrades. What takes the collection to an outstanding level, however, are the works given to the Duke by the King of Spain. These include works by Velazquez, Van Dyck, Murillo, Ruebens and other masters. At one time, they were part of the Spanish Royal Collection. When the French occupied Spain, Napoleon put his brother Joseph Bonaparte on the Spanish throne. As French fortunes in Spain sank, Joseph decided to depart taking a large part of the Royal Collection with him. These works were captured by Wellington's army after the Battle of Vitoria. Wellington offered to return them to the rightful king (Ferdinand VII) but the king declined saying that the paintings had come into Wellington's possession by just and honorable means. To display this part of the collection, the Duke had the Waterloo Gallery added to Apsley House. It was designed by Benjamin Wyatt and is a long tall room. The décor is a somewhat heavier style than the rest of the house looking more toward early Victorian than Regency taste. Apsley House is located at Hyde Park Corner where Piccadilly and Park Lane meet. It is just up Constitution Hill from Buckingham Palace and thus can be conveniently combined with a visit to the Palace and/or the Queens Gallery. Along the same lines, it borders Hyde Park and so can be combined with a visit to that park. A good audio guide is included in the price of admission. The house is not open every day. For opening times, see English Heritage's website. 
Above: On the island immediately in front of Apsley House is the Wellington Arch. Designed in 1828 by Decimus Brown, this arch was originally at the entrance to Hyde Park and had a big equestrian statue of the Duke on top. It was moved to its present location in 1883 but without the statue. The current statue representing Peace in a four-horse chariot was added in 1912.
The Horse Guards in their ceremonial uniforms ride through the arch on the mornings in which there is to be a changing of the guard ceremony at Horse Guards Parade. Visitors can go in the arch and climb the stairs for a view. |
Cruise destination guide - England - London - Art in London - Apsley House