County Wicklow has been described as the garden of Ireland and it is one of the most scenic areas in a country known for its scenery. The Powerscourt Estate and Gardens is the best known of Wicklow's gardens. Thus, it can be viewed as the best of the best.
Powerscourt was once one of the grand Anglo-Irish estates - - sort of an Irish Downton Abbey. Its centerpiece was a sizeable Palladian-style stately home. Around the house were acres of gardens as well as the working farms and property of the estate. |
Today, Powerscourt is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Ireland. In addition, located on the estate are a Ritz-Carlton hotel and a championship 18 hole golf course.
Not surprisingly, a visit to Powerscourt is frequently offered as a shore excursion during cruise ship port calls in Dublin. (There are also independent companies that offer tours to Powerscourt). Located only about 13 miles south of Dublin, it does not take long to get there and thus such excursions offer cruisers a glimpse of the Irish countryside while leaving enough time to get back and see something of the city before the ship sails. |
Above: Countryside surrounding the estate.
Below: The village of Enniskerry. |
For me, the excursion to Powerscourt had an element of a pilgrimage about it. My parents made many trips to Ireland in the 1970s and the refined but nonetheless spectacular beauty of Powerscourt was something that enthralled my mother particularly. As a result, there was much discussion of Powerscourt in our home. Naturally, Powerscourt made it to my must-see list.
After leaving the city, the coach wound its way through narrow country roads, twisting along besides rivers and bordered by lush green trees. Eventually, we came to the picturesque village of Enniskerry, which borders on the estate. The coach squeezed through an impossibly small gate and then onto a tree-lined drive. We passed horses in a field and places that offered vistas of the Wicklow Hills in the distance. At another point, I caught a glimpse of the hotel, which has been situated so as to blend in unobtrusively with the rest of the estate. At last, we came upon the house, which lies in a great expanse of open area. Once this was undoubtedly fields. Now, it has been put to use as a golf course. |
Above: The north front of the house.
Below: The south front. Above: The terrace along the south front.
Below: Although sections of the interior have been converted for retail use, other areas remain bare brick. |
Powerscourt HouseThe house that we see today was largely designed by Richard Cassels in the 1730s. However, it incorporates parts of an ancient 13th century castle with walls eight feet thick. The castle was owned by King Edward I of England but was held for him by Eustace de Poer. De Poer's name became anglicized into Powers and hence the name of the estate.
In the mid-14th century, the estate came into the hands of the O'Toole family. However, by the beginning of the 17th century, it had become the property of the Wingfield family. Some accounts say that Powerscourt was given to Sir Richard Wingfield by Queen Elizabeth I in thanks for his military services. Other accounts claim that it was given to him by her successor, King James I. In any event, the Wingfields lived here for some 350 years. The Wingfield family had moved up the aristocratic ladder by the beginning of the 18th century. The head of the family was now a viscount (i.e. a lord) rather than just a knight. To go along with this new status, the first Viscount Powerscourt set about building a modern 68-room mansion. The design was the then fashionable Pallidian style. Inspired by the works of Venetian architect Andrea Palladio, which incorporated elements of ancient Greek and Roman design. The house was completed in 1741. An additional story was added to the south front in 1787. In the 19th century additional improvements were made including the construction of two wings. In 1961, the estate was sold to the Slazanger family. During the 20th century the house had deteriorated and the Slazengers set about restoring it to its former glory. To celebrate the completion of the work in 1974, the family held a large party/press event. Reportedly, a reporter tossed a lit cigarette into one of the fireplaces, which led to a blaze that engulfed the entire house leaving just a shell. After laying in ruins for 20 years, the house was restored to usable condition. However, it is not what it once was. Once, Powerscourt had the reputation of having the finest 18th century interior in Ireland. Now, all of the plaster work and paneling are gone, leaving just the underlying red bricks exposed. It is no longer a residence but rather a retail venue with a restaurant, craft shops, and a children's museum. While these venues have given the interior new life, it is something of a melancholy experience to walk the halls. At the same time, however, the exterior of the house is still graceful and uplifting to behold. This is especially so when the clouds part and sunshine covers the house. The house, surrounded by its park, once again has the magnificence of a bygone time. |
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Cruise destination - Ireland - Visiting Powerscourt House and Gardens - page 1